On an unusually cool Saturday, over 150,000 people gathered at Churchill Downs for the 152nd Kentucky Derby to drink, smoke cigars and watch a series of exhilarating horse races. Derby Day can often reach about 80 degrees, so I’m happy my first visit was a comfortable 65 degrees, though I did need a jacket.
It was a thrill to be there for the first time, and that excitement is something a lot of folks chase year after year. That includes Ken Badaway, who was at his 40th Derby camped out in the infield with his family.
“I came the first time when I was a senior in college, and I've come back every year since, except for the COVID year,” Badaway said.
The Kentucky Derby is known for, well, the horse races. But what stood out to me during my time in Louisville was the eccentric local culture around the most exciting two minutes in sports — mainly the fashion.
Women wore elegant dresses speckled with greens, blues and pinks. Men sported suits in pastel colors. To do my best to blend in, I wore a white dress with pink and green flowers, along with a white fascinator — attached to my headphones, of course.
Fabulous hats are a must at the Derby. Take Kentuckian Samantha Ballard, who I met Friday at the Kentucky Oaks, as an example. She wore a bright pink and orange dress with a matching disc-shaped hat that was nearly a foot tall, adorned with a pink bow and feathers.
“The bigger the hat, the better.” Ballard said.
In a sea of refined attire, others chose more unconventional looks. Ron Kelly and his father made hats that replicated Churchill Downs’ iconic twin spires.
The trick? Grab a doll house, drill it into a motorcycle hat, and decorate until you are satisfied.
“It garners great attention, and people love the intricacies of them,” Kelly said.
Throughout Derby Day, spectators placed bets on each of the 14 races, with the main event being 12th in the lineup. And what’s the fun of the being at the track if you don’t bet, right? I had to try it at least once.
To make sure I wasn’t too much in the dark, Laura Perniciaro, who won more than $130, offered some advice.
“I bet on names and jockeys,” she said.
That sounded good enough to me, but I sadly ended up losing $6. Maybe I’ll have better fortune as the big race approaches.
Betting at the Derby is truly unlike anything I’ve ever witnessed. According to Churchill Downs, total wagering on Derby Day rose to $340 million, just $9 million shy of last year’s record. And my small but mighty $6 contributed to that number.
To cheer myself up, it was time to try the classic mint julep — a bourbon-based drink mixed with fresh mint and sugar. It’s synonymous with the Derby, and I saw them everywhere at the track.
Bartender Kevin Milstead put his signature move on the drink by slapping the mint on top of the counter.
“Can I spank your mint there?” he asked. “Give a little tap, right there. You'll notice the difference on that one.”
I decided to trust him. After all, it’s his 10th time working at the Derby.
“It's always fun seeing everybody out here,” Milstead said. “It's like the unofficial start to summer for me.”
While strong, the smell of the mint stalk provided a cooling, fresh balance to the drink. I tried to smoke a cigar to help with the aftertaste to no avail.
After nearly eight hours of races, the Run for the Roses was finally here. Hundreds of people rushed to their seats after making last-minute bets. Anticipation filled the stands as the horses loaded into their respective gates, with some spectators booing after Great White knocked his jockey off and fell — leading to a late scratch.
To make the most of the moment, I tried my luck once again with a bet on the morning-line favorite, Renegade.
The crowd was electric throughout the entire race. People all around me and my little microphone passionately cheered on their horses. Some frustrated folks stomped their feet or cursed. Others shrieked with excitement when Golden Tempo, ridden by Jose Ortiz, triumphed after being in dead last. My choice Renegade, ridden by Ortiz's brother, came in second.
With the victory, Cherie DeVaux became the first woman to train a Derby winner.
“It really is an honor to be able to be that person for other women or other little girls to look up to,” DeVaux said after the race. “You can dream big, and you can pivot. You can come from one place and make yourself a part of history.”
Even though I lost, at least I got to see DeVaux and Golden Tempo make history. I have to admit, my first Kentucky Derby was fun.
But I didn’t come all the way to Louisville simply to bet on the ponies, nay (neigh). It was about taking in the sights, the people and the traditions that comprise this longstanding event. In the days leading up to the Derby, I visited Waterfront Park for Fest-a-Ville, where people played carnival games, ate fried foods and rode creaky rides. The main attraction, in my opinion, was the live wrestling match along the banks of the Ohio River.
Overall, my time in Louisville was one to remember. I’m happy to say I checked off a bucket list item. If I come back next year, I think I will make my own hat.
Jacqui Sieber is a reporter at WUOT in Knoxville, which partners with LPM through the Appalachia + Mid-South Newsroom alongside West Virginia Public Broadcasting, WPLN in Tennessee, WEKU, WKMS and WKU Public Radio in Kentucky, and NPR. Sign up for the weekly Porch light newsletter here for news from around the region.